Our First Good Storm

This past Thursday and Friday our heavens opened up and gave us the first really good storm since last spring. This is turning out to be an incredibly dry year for California. We’ve had worse, but this is the third year in a row of below average rainfall for the Santa Clara valley. This new storm brought us up to only about 50% of normal rainfall total for the season to date. February and March are typically the wettest months here, so there’s still hope for improvement. But, without a lot more rain, agriculture will take a big hit, and some water rationing looks very likely.

One of my favorite winter hikes is the classic falls loop at Big Basin. Normally this time of year the string of falls along Berry Creek are showing their best displays, fat with runoff water, especially just after a good storm. Naturally waterfall activity has been less than spectacular this season, and not great for the last three years in a row. Despite the grim water outlook, and the meager runoff, somehow I couldn’t do without hiking the falls loop after this last storm. I’m still not sure if I feared that this would be the best we’d see until next year, or if I simply could not deal with missing my seasonal tradition of doing this hike in the peak of the wet season. It was probably both.

I arrived at park headquarters early and hiked on out to the falls using Skyline to the Sea trail. I always make a point to get there early to avoid crowds in the main area of the park. Some of the parking areas were closed because of construction to accommodate wheelchair access to the redwood trail. I found the expected low flow, but with the sun coming out by then there was some interesting interplay with the sunlight and the dancing water.

I can remember back in 2004 when I was doing a lot of volunteer trail maintenance with SCMTA on the Big Basin crew. During February we had worked all morning in ankle deep water to improve storm diversion on the Skyline to the Sea trail heading up out of the headquarters area, which was completely flooded in places. Footbridges were being washed out of their locations, mudslides were damaging trails, and many trees fell. During that year, Berry creek fall was actually making a pounding noise, and churning up mist. This year it sounds more like a desktop water feature.

After visiting the fall, I scrapped my plans to do the rest of the falls trail. I decided instead to hike up Henry Creek trail. This is the kind of hike that only experienced hikers should attempt. It’s classified as a horse trail, but I would think it would be hard to get a horse to walk that trail. There is no bridge at the creek, and the trail can be hard to discern at the double crossing. If you search along the creek, there’s a place where a crossing is possible because of a large sheet of rock that spreads out the water flow. The rocky trail tread up higher has heavy erosion damage, and it rolls up and down fatiguingly. I like it because it’s somewhat of a challenge, and offers sweeping views down to the unique little valley between this ridge and Chalks road. It’s also a much less traveled route. It’s rare to encounter other hikers on this route. The valley floor is thickly populated with beautiful mature Douglas firs providing some contrast to the redwood dominated areas. The higher more arid areas are mostly exposed with sparse populations of scrubby pines, with lots of Manzanita and array of native plants, lichens and mosses. This section also provided a glimpse of spring. I spotted some fledgling Milk maids, and also a few very rare Fetid Adders Tongue. There's a photo link below.

A rocky outcropping at a high point along the Henry creek trail made a great lunch spot among the blooming heather before heading back using the same little wildcat trail I used for my last trip to Chalk Mountain. After that I had an uneventful return trip to park headquarters using the Sunset trail.

Click here to see my flickr pix

Skyline Rocks

Ever heard of that? Even if you live in the Bay Area and you do a lot of hiking you've probably never heard of that. It’s not some music festival, not an adjective, or even a park. Don’t google it, I’ll save you the trouble. I made it up! Sometimes I like to use my imagination a little when I’m out hiking. I suspect most avid hikers have a similar process of suspending modern reality for a time and allowing themselves to walk freely as though they hadn’t a care in the world. I like to imagine that the boundaries of any given “park” or tract of wildland didn’t exist, and that I might just walk forever. I really like the high degree of connectedness that exists between many of our bay area parks that allows for planning unusual, less traveled, hiking routes that cross over into other lands. I often try to invent different route variations, but sometimes I make up names for my favorite routes that only I or my wife might actually know, and she probably thinks I’m a little nuts. Skyline Rocks is one of them. I call it that because the best view points along the way are from various sandstone rock outcroppings along California highway 35, or “Skyline”.

Considering the close proximity of the trailhead to our house, this route is kind of a gas saver special for me. It begins in Sanborn County Park. With park headquarters located just a few minutes out of Saratoga off of highway 9, it’s almost in our back yard. Sanborn is another of those places that hikers tend to associate more with family picnicking than serious hiking, but it seems that most hikers don’t bother to consider all the possibilities. The map shows you can hike all the way to skyline, but doesn’t show that if you can do that, then you can connect with the skyline trail and the BART. And if you can do that, you really could almost walk forever. The Sanborn Trail is actually a much underappreciated trail. The beginning section is steep for about the first mile or so, but then becomes more gradual climbing up through a nice diverse tree canopy including stands of redwood, Douglas fir, tanoak, and madrone. This is one place where you can see many examples of old growth Douglas fir. I have to laugh, or perhaps cry, when I think that most children in America think of Douglas fir as some little 6 foot shrub that you buy at the supermarket for Christmas, and then pitch it out like trash. Here you get to see the grand-daddies. You get some fairly good views in places, if through tree cover. The canopy is dense enough to keep you cool in hot whether, and to partially shelter you in a drizzle. In one section called Todd creek there are a few old growth redwoods amongst the second growth and the stump remnants of their majestic grandfathers. In a few places you can begin to notice the unusual sandstone formations jutting from the hillsides.

Near the top of the ridge is the junction with the skyline trail which runs roughly adjacent to highway 35. Sometimes a little too closely adjacent if you can hear the cars, but most of the trail remains far enough away from the highway not to notice its there. Here too there are broken views down across the valley below partially obstructed by tree cover. After just over 2 miles of gently rolling trail you approach the junction with Indian rock trail and the main entrance to Castle Rock State Park.

Castle Rock is very popular with the general public, and on this day it was as popular as ever. The main section of the park makes a good outing for families with children, and the parking areas were all full. Here too however, getting off the beaten track will avoid most of the crowds. And because I hiked up from Sanborn, I didn’t need to park. I have a favorite little rock outcrop that I go to sometimes which is not on the maps. This point provides great views out toward the San Lorenzo valley, and weather permitting, out to the ocean and Monterey bay. It’s a good place to enjoy some quiet time. From there I found my way up the Ridge trail to Goat rock, which is a popular practice rock for climbers. There’s lots of knarly sandstone and tafoni around for the curious to keep busy, and more awesome views westward and to the south. To avoid more crowds, I took in some quick views from the overlook, but didn’t hang around there. I continued northwest on the Ridge trail all the way to the trail camp, enjoying various west looking view points along the way including Varian peak. The Ridge trail and the Saratoga Gap trails are both excellent. At the trail camp I walked up the service road and found the Loghty Woods trailhead in order to loop back around to the other side of the ridge. This is also pretty trail, but it’s a little strange to hike because it encircles the private rod and gun club lands adjacent to the park. You have to put up with a lot of racket from the sport shooting.

Back across highway 35 is a connector to easily get back onto the skyline trail to head southward again back toward Sanborn. Along this section of trail are some more good viewing rocks which provide fantastic views on the other side of skyline ridge looking down to the Santa Clara valley, and weather permitting, north up the channel of the bay. Some of these rocks are also popular with climbers as practice and training rocks. Summit rock was actually closed by the County because of “endangered species nesting”. The signs were not specific, but I heard from some climbers that some peregrine falcons have nested there. No word on when it may re-open. I have some old pictures which I will link below. The other big rock along here is called Indian rock. Both places have fantastic inspiring views. From Indian rock use the skyline trail back southbound to the Sanborn trail. After making your way to the next junction below you can choose to descend on the Sanborn trail which is quicker and steeper, or to take the Y to the left to use the San Andreas trail which has a lot of switchbacks. It’s a matter of preference. I usually climb steep and descend on the more graded route. That’s one version of the Skyline rocks hike. Imagination can dissolve boundaries.

Click here to see my photos
Click here to see my Sanborn/Castle rock photoset from July 2008

A Rose by any other Name

What does it mean when you plan something a certain way, only to wind up getting a completely different result, but upon refection on the matter, you realize that you wouldn’t have wanted it any other way? Does that represent a dose of irony? Or could it be a taste of Serendipity? A simple case of fortuity? Or could it be all of them? Or are we on the Twilight Zone? On my hike today, it seemed like all of the above while sitting on the summit of Rose Peak with 24 other people. How ironic does it sound to have 25 people sitting around on the highest and most remote point in the Ohlone wilderness at the same time? I suppose people head into the backcountry for different reasons. Certainly being among friends is as valid a reason as anything. But for me, my hikes are often about getting away and enjoying the peace, but it doesn’t have to be that way.

I began the day by pulling into the parking area near the visitor’s center of Sunol Regional Wilderness expecting to embark on a solo hike to Rose Peak. As I pulled in to park, I noticed a group of people in hiking gear kind of milling around. Someone was waving at me because they seemed to think perhaps I was looking for them. I talked to them for awhile and found out that they were a meetup.com hiking group called Super Fabulicious. I’m still not sure what that means, but it really sounds cool. I'm sure that word must be in the dictionary. Turns out I was not the person they were looking for, but we soon discovered that we were all headed to Rose Peak. After discussing the routes, elevation, distance, and chit chatting for awhile, I was invited join them even though I am not officially a member, and accepted without reluctance. They seemed affable enough to scrap my plans for a solo hike. There were now 13 in the group including myself.

So we headed across the foot bridge and onto the Canyon View Trail to the McCorkle, and continuing on to find the markers for the Ohlone Wilderness Trail. At 36 degrees, it was crisp, but the sun soon beamed over the top of the ridgeline to the east to warm things up quickly. It didn’t take long with the climbing before everyone was removing layers of gear, and even applying sunscreen. When we reached one of the markers somewhere beyond the backpacking camp, and had stopped to regroup and take a break, I saw some other people headed up the trail behind us. I soon recognized these intrepid folks as members of the Sierra Club's Loma Prieta chapter Day Hikers group. My wife and I have hiked with this group numerous times in the past years. Sue being technically still a member still gets their emails. They had a group of about 12, most of whom I knew. The two hiking groups would kind of intermingle all along the way as we stretched out with varying paces, and then formed up again at stopping points. For me it was in interesting mix of enjoying new acquaintances, and re-kindling some old ones. Eventually we all met at the summit in one big mass, populating Rose Peak as I would have never imagined. It was like a perfect storm of hiking camaraderie. I had to laugh when I thought about what some poor soloist would have thought to hike up to Rose expecting to be alone to ponder the views in quietness and solitude, only to walk into this sprawling encampment of lunching hikers. It was especially funny to think that that person could well have been me, but I wouldn’t have wanted it any other way. A rose (peak) is indeed a rose.

Click here to see my photoset
Click here to see the Super Fabulicious photos

Wilderness Protection Moves Forward

Good news on the wilderness protection front. Federal legislation to protect wilderness lands comprising two million acres in nine states successfully moved forward on Sunday toward likely final Senate approval on Friday. It is expected to move on to the House after that with approval likely there as well. Components of the bill were able to ensure wide Bi-partisan support despite some opposition 'spin' over property rights, and heavy criticism by one Republican Senator who made a push to stall the process. Here is a link to the LA Times story.

Willow Ridge Hike

Well its way past Thanksgiving, but why have only one day a year when you decided to be grateful for the things you really care about. I love to take time to appreciate the simple things in life. And borrowing on a recent post by Adam Shake on his blog Twilight Earth entitled “Vowing to Praise the Beauty of the Ordinary”; I would like to offer the following quote:

“What is Beauty? Some would say that it is a rare thing, and it is the rareness of it, that makes it special. But I disagree. Beauty is a common thing. As common as a field of grass. As common as a trail snaking between pines with the sun filtering down through them. Beauty is an ordinary thing.”

I couldn’t agree more. And the more I visit Henry Coe State Park, the more I am grateful to the estate of his namesake for their gift of this awesomely “ordinary” track of land for use as a State park. Coe’s parklands abound in quiet, subtle, beauty that can only be truly appreciated by those who are willing to venture outside of the droning concrete anthill of the bay area’s metropolis. To those who are willing to venture inward in spirit by venturing outward in body, rewarding experiences are waiting for them a places like Coe.

Being solo for today, I had no really specific destination for today’s hike. I thought I might hike up high for the long range views, but I wanted to go somewhere I had not been lately. Henry Coe’s Willow Ridge came to mind because that would give me the opportunity to hike some sections that I haven’t been to in years. The last time I went up that way was on a hike out to Mississippi Lake. That hike was on a spring day, so I wasted a lot of time photographing wild flowers, enjoying the views, and after all the brutal climbing and decent, I didn’t get back until after dark. I had taken a route by way of Poverty Flat, down to Little Fork Coyote Creek, then back up and over a little ridge, and back down to East Fork, loosing all that altitude all over again. Then you head up daunting Willow Ridge Trail. All that up-and-down really burns a lot of energy. But if you don’t mind doing a little scrambling, you can reduce the impact a little by using the section simply called “The Narrows”. And that’s where I was headed.

Being one person hiking alone allows for the experience of the striking quietness of the morning. Large groups tend to make a racket which will spoil your chances for wildlife viewing. Hiking out through Manzanita Point early in the morning I noticed many young black tail, mostly doe. The one big buck I spotted pranced off as soon as he saw me. I have often noticed the males are a lot more skittish and wondered if this is a learned response due to hunting. Along the China Hole Trail several large masses of doves would actually startle me a bit as they all broke into flight at the same instant, beating the air intensely with their wings sending a palpable sound wave through the air.

After shedding layers up on Pine Ridge in the sun, down in China Hole it was still so cold that thick sheets of ice were covering any still sections of water. After re-outfitted myself with gloves and skullcap, I headed up The Narrows. There is really no trail through this interesting little rocky canyon. You must choose your own way, hiking across jagged rocks, often scrambling a bit, re-crossing the creek many times, with difficult footing. This route may not save any time, but any other way to Los Cruzeros will involve more climbing. It’s a beautiful area as well. I love the way quartz is laced through the rock as though drizzled by some master confectioner.

Trudging up Willow Ridge Trail I was soon back in the sun, and was soon back down to only a single wicking layer and a boonie hat. I was encouraged by the extent of recovery I could see in the areas to the south of Willow Ridge that were burned in the Lick fire some 17 months ago. The fire was not very hot in this area, and all of the visible charring is almost gone. The large double trunked pine that stands at the summit point of Willow Ridge is still there, but severely damaged with one of it’s trunks torn off. The mist lingered around the peaks to the southeast all morning making them look mysterious. I enjoyed a good view to the Sierras, but the snowpack is less than spectacular. And indeed the views in all directions were clear, and fine, the subtle color variations inviting a lingering gaze. Perfect for a nice backcountry lunch.

Back down at Los Cruzeros, I made my return trip by way of Mahoney Meadows Road to Lost Spring Trail, gaining altitude all the way to my turning point onto the other part of China Hole Trail, and back down to Coyote Creek. Up until this time I had not seen anyone else all day. Back at China Hole there was a whole group of people headed to some camping area somewhere. I talked to them briefly before heading back up to Manzanita Point by way of Madrone Soda Springs. My GPS batteries quit on me somewhere up the trail, but it’s just as well, because I am not at all happy with its performance. I knew the altimeter was usually off unless I can find a known point to calibrate to. But in trying to plot out my route on TOPO software, the coordinates do not match up very closely with the map. It’s supposed to be within about 15 feet with good reception, but sometimes it’s more like hundreds of feet. Not good enough to accurately show you my route. Maybe later this year I’ll get a decent GPS so I can include the track logs and elevation profiles in my posts.

Click here to see my photoset on flickr
Click here to see my Mississippi Lake photoset from 2006

Solstice hike

I did do some hiking this weekend. I should have gone for a hike on Saturday while the weather was nice. I wanted to, but with the holidays and some other activity garnering my time, I decided that I might attempt to get a hike in today (Sunday 12/21). The weather report was showing strong possibility of afternoon showers, but many times I still go out and hike early enough to get done before the rains get here. This strategy failed me today, so I got a little wet, but I’m always prepared for that. It didn’t rain hard at all, and I had tree cover and a rain jacket. Sometimes hiking in the wet is fun. It’s good for the senses.

I went to El Corte de Madera OSP. Usually a haven for bonsai-insane mountain bikers. The trails are multi-use, and I’ve seen them come charging down the steep, very rocky and rough Manzanita Trail, and Fir Trail, bounding over rocks, getting air, brakes squealing, tires skidding, groping for grip on the dust and dirt, and flying at speed, without a prayer of stopping if something was in the way. I’ve learned to be alert here. I was thinking there wouldn’t be many bikers with the weather being a threat, and I was almost right. I did encounter bikers even in the rain, but very friendly an affable were all of them. I didn’t see any other hikers. Really the majority of the cyclists are great folks just out for their brand of outdoor experience, but a few are the bonsai type.

It’s been colder lately as evidenced by the frosty vegetation, and few pines which had frozen sap dripping down the side of their trunks. The recent rains had conditioned the trails into a nice dust-free semi-hardpack type surface with very little mud. The lichens and mosses are really brilliant green hues right now. Somehow the moisture brings out much more color. Even some of the fall colors are still around in areas with lots of deciduous trees. Big Leaf Maples along the Steam Donkey Trail are still shedding yellow and reddish leaves. There is no level ground at El Corte. Every section has its own elevation gain and loss. This is what the fire fighters call “Billy-goat country”. The terrain is so complex it’s hard to remember from visit to visit which trails are up or down. You gotta’ love a workout. No long range views today, and cut the hike short because of the rain.

One trail note: The Giant Salamander Trail and the El Corte de Madera Creek Trail are both closed for restoration work until spring 2009.

Park Advocacy Day 2009

You Californians may remember last year there was a big push to reduce the State’s looming budget deficit by imposing an across the board cut in all State departmental budgets. When this push began, the State Parks Department had formulated a proposal for reducing their operating costs by closing 48 State parks, and eliminating life guards from 16 State beaches, and submitted it to the Governor. This plan was their best determined solution intended to keep the same funding in place for the remaining parks.

This was not the end of the story however. You may also remember that there was a great public outcry over this proposal which spawned a rallying of forces. It generated a groundswell of opposition from various naturalist and outdoor advocate groups, and spurred a letter writing campaign that populated electronic mail boxes in Sacramento. It also stimulated a lot of fresh thinking about exactly what the real importance and true value of our parks and wild spaces really consist of. Also about how the closure of parks would impact State and local revenues apart from the operating costs alone. Alternative solutions to closure were postulated and counter proposed, and after months of intense discussion, debate, and negotiation, eventually the State legislature relented on the closure plan. Click here to read the California State Parks Foundation 2008 talking points.

Most people don’t realize that it is possible to not only have better ideas than the government’s rather short sighted thinking, but also a voice through which to express those thoughts and ideas. In March of 2009 the California State Parks Foundation will sponsor their 7th annual Park Advocacy Day. This is a fantastic opportunity for anyone who believes they have some good positive input to join with others participating in meetings with actual policymakers in Sacramento to discuss important issues related to parks. You only need to register. Even if you cannot go, or don’t want to attend, you can still check out their website for ideas on how you can advocate for parks yourself, and to stay informed.